Nylon (PA) Filament Guide: Settings, Drying & Best Brands 2026

What Is Nylon and Why Does It Matter?

Nylon — formally Polyamide (PA) — is a semi-crystalline thermoplastic that's been used in engineering applications for decades. In FDM printing, it stands out for one quality above almost all others: exceptional toughness. Where PLA shatters under impact and PETG bends and creeps under sustained load, nylon absorbs energy and bounces back. Gears, hinges, cable clips, tool holders, structural brackets — parts that need to survive real mechanical stress belong in nylon.

There are two grades you'll encounter in FDM: PA6 (standard nylon 6) and PA12 (nylon 12). PA6 has marginally higher strength and heat resistance; PA12 is significantly less hygroscopic and easier to print. For most users, PA12 is the better starting point. It's more forgiving, holds dimensional accuracy better, and still delivers the toughness and heat resistance that make nylon worth using in the first place.

Nylon also bonds to itself exceptionally well between layers — better than PETG, better than ASA. This means printed nylon parts are more isotropic (more equal strength in all directions) than most other FDM materials. A structural part printed in nylon is genuinely stronger than the same part in PETG or PLA, not just in marketing copy.

Print Temp (PA6)

250–270°C

255°C is a solid starting point

Print Temp (PA12)

240–260°C

245°C works well for most brands

Bed Temperature

70–90°C

PEI + glue stick for best results

Heat Deflection

~150°C

PA6 higher than PA12 (~170°C)

Enclosure

Required

40–50°C chamber for large parts

Dry Before Printing

Always

80–90°C for 6–8 hours

PA6 vs PA12: Which Should You Print?

The choice between PA6 and PA12 comes down to one trade-off: PA6 is mechanically superior but significantly harder to manage. PA12 is easier to print, holds its shape more consistently, and still delivers most of what makes nylon worth using. Unless you specifically need maximum heat resistance or tensile strength, start with PA12.

PROPERTY	PA6 (Nylon 6)	PA12 (Nylon 12)
Moisture Absorption	Very high (3–4% by weight)	Low (1.3–1.5% by weight)
Tensile Strength	Higher (~80 MPa printed)	Slightly lower (~65 MPa printed)
Heat Deflection Temp	~170°C	~150°C
Printability	Difficult — warps significantly	Moderate — manageable warping
Dimensional Stability	Poor (absorbs moisture after printing)	Good
Chemical Resistance	Good — oils, fuels, solvents	Excellent — broader chemical resistance
Best For	Maximum strength structural parts	Gears, clips, brackets, daily-use parts
Nozzle Required	Hardened steel recommended	Brass works; hardened steel preferred

Drying Nylon: The Non-Negotiable Step

No other common FDM material punishes wet filament as severely as nylon. PA6 can absorb enough atmospheric moisture to be completely unprintable within 12–24 hours of opening in a humid environment. PA12 is more forgiving, but still noticeably degrades within 48 hours. If you're not printing with dry nylon, you're not printing nylon — you're fighting it.

Signs of wet nylon are unmistakable: popping and crackling sounds from the nozzle as water vaporises, a foamy or bubbly surface texture, significantly reduced layer bonding, and visible steam wisps from the hot end. Wet nylon prints are brittle, dimensionally inaccurate, and visually rough. There's no tweaking settings to compensate — you must dry the filament.

Drying specs for nylon

Dry PA6 at 80–90°C for 8–12 hours. Dry PA12 at 80–85°C for 6–8 hours. A food dehydrator set to maximum or a dedicated filament dryer (the Bambu Lab Filament Hub, eSUN eBox, or Creality Filament Dryer all work) handles this without any risk to the spool. A standard kitchen oven can work if you can trust it to hold temperature accurately and the spool is metal-core — plastic spools risk warping above 70°C.

Print nylon directly from the dryer whenever possible. A dryer running during a long print is far better than a spool sitting open in the workshop. Many experienced nylon printers seal fresh spools with desiccant immediately and only open them for printing. See our complete filament drying guide for dryer comparisons and timing for every material.

⚠️

Never skip drying, even "new" spools

Nylon absorbs moisture through vacuum-sealed packaging over long storage periods. A spool that's been sitting in a warehouse for months may already be partially wet. Dry every nylon spool before first use regardless of whether it was just opened.

Print Settings: Dialling In Nylon

Nylon rewards careful setup. The settings below are tested starting points — tune from these rather than beginning from scratch. For Bambu Lab users, Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer both include PA profiles that are reasonable baselines, though they sometimes under-estimate required drying and run fans too aggressively on open-frame machines.

SETTING	RECOMMENDED VALUE	NOTES
Nozzle Temperature (PA6)	250–270°C	Start at 255°C; increase for better layer bonding on structural parts
Nozzle Temperature (PA12)	240–260°C	245–250°C covers most brands reliably
Bed Temperature	70–90°C	80°C on textured PEI + thin glue stick layer; 70°C can work for PA12 on small prints
Enclosure / Chamber Temp	40–50°C	Required for parts over 80mm. Bambu X1C/P1S ideal. Open-frame needs enclosure modification
Part Cooling Fan	0–15%	Minimal or off for most of the print; small amount acceptable for bridging only
Print Speed	30–60 mm/s	Slower = better layer bonding and less warping. Don't push nylon like PETG
Retraction Distance	0.5–1.5 mm	Direct drive (Bambu): 0.5–1 mm. Bowden: 3–6 mm. Nylon strings but excess retraction causes clogs
Brim	8–12 mm	Strongly recommended for all PA6 prints and any PA12 print over 60mm
Nozzle Type	Hardened steel	Brass works for plain PA12; hardened steel required for PA-CF, PA-GF variants and recommended for all nylon

💡

Glue stick on PEI is the nylon adhesion secret

Nylon bonds too aggressively to bare textured PEI at high temperatures — parts can bond so hard they pull the PEI surface off. Apply a very thin layer of standard glue stick (Pritt or equivalent) to the textured PEI before every nylon print. It acts as a release agent: the print sticks during printing, then releases cleanly once cooled below 40°C. Wash the plate with warm water between prints to remove glue residue.

Nylon on Bambu Lab Printers

Bambu Lab's enclosed printers — the P1S and X1 Carbon — are genuinely excellent nylon printers. The heated chamber, direct-drive extruder, and hardened nozzle (X1C) or optional hardened upgrade (P1S) make everything easier. PA12 profiles in Bambu Studio are particularly well-tuned; PA6 needs more temperature and slower speeds than the default profile suggests.

The A1 Mini and A1 are not suitable for nylon in their stock configuration. No enclosure means no chamber heat, and large nylon prints will warp without exception. Small PA12 parts (under 50mm in any direction) can sometimes succeed on the A1 Mini if you box in the printer and use a brim, but it's not a reliable workflow.

AMS and nylon

The full Bambu AMS with active drying (AMS 2 Pro on P2S, or the original AMS with the AMS Hub) can run nylon reliably — the active drying keeps moisture absorption in check during long multi-spool prints. AMS Lite does not actively dry, so nylon loaded into AMS Lite is exposed to ambient humidity during the print. For multi-colour nylon workflows, full AMS with drying is the correct setup. Plain single-colour nylon prints from a spool dryer running alongside the printer work equally well.

Nozzle guidance for Bambu printers

Plain PA12 can run through a brass nozzle for a spool or two, but hardened steel is a better long-term choice even for unfilled nylon. For PA-CF or PA-GF (glass-filled) variants, hardened steel or ruby is mandatory — filled nylons will destroy a brass nozzle within a spool. Bambu's own hardened steel nozzles are a reliable upgrade. See our Bambu nozzle guide for a full comparison.

When to Use Nylon — and When Not To

✓ Nylon is the right choice when

You're printing functional mechanical parts — gears, cams, bearings, levers
The part needs to survive sustained mechanical stress or repeated impact
You need heat resistance above 80°C (PETG's limit) without full enclosure chemistry
Chemical resistance to oils, fuels, or mild solvents is required
You want the lowest friction surface for sliding or bearing surfaces
Printing clips, snap-fits, or living hinges that must flex repeatedly without cracking

✕ Choose something else when

You don't have an enclosure — warping will ruin large prints
You can't dry the filament before every print session
The part is purely decorative — PLA is easier and cheaper
You need outdoor UV stability — use ASA instead
The part will be submerged in water long-term — nylon absorbs water and swells
You want multicolour — nylon purge towers are difficult to manage

Best Nylon Filaments to Buy in 2026

Nylon quality varies more than most materials. Cheap PA with poor drying at the factory will perform worse than good PA12 even after home drying, because the polymer itself degrades during extrusion if it was wet during manufacturing. Stick to brands with documented quality control and proper vacuum sealing.

BRAND / PRODUCT	GRADE	BEST FOR	APPROX PRICE	NOTES
Bambu Lab PA12-CF	PA12+CF	Bambu X1C/P1S users	~€35/kg	Pre-tuned profiles, excellent stiffness. Requires hardened nozzle. Best starting point for Bambu users
eSUN ePA-CF	PA+CF	Functional mechanical parts	~€28/kg	Consistent diameter, reliable moisture packaging, good value for carbon-filled performance
eSUN ePA	PA6	High-strength unfilled nylon	~€22/kg	Good entry point into PA6. Vacuum sealed. Needs aggressive drying (90°C, 10+ hours)
3DJake PA12 (various)	PA12	EU buyers, budget-conscious	~€18–22/kg	Widest stock selection in Europe, fast EU delivery. Good for first nylon experiments without overspending
Polymaker PolyMide PA12-CF	PA12+CF	Dimensional accuracy, low warp	~€32/kg	Specifically engineered for low warping. Excellent for first-time nylon printers who want CF stiffness
Prusament PA11 CF	PA11+CF	Bio-based, tight tolerances	~€38/kg	PA11 (bio-nylon from castor oil) has better impact toughness and slightly lower moisture absorption than PA6. ±0.02mm diameter

🧵 Shop Nylon Filament

Browse PA12, PA6, and PA-CF across all major brands

3DJake stocks the broadest EU nylon selection with fast delivery. eSUN is the best value PA6 and PA-CF pick.

BROWSE ON 3DJAKE → ESUN STORE → BAMBU FILAMENTS →

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I print nylon on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini?

Not reliably. The A1 Mini has no enclosure, and nylon needs a 40–50°C chamber temperature to avoid warping on any part larger than ~50mm. Small PA12 parts sometimes succeed if you build a cardboard enclosure around the printer, but it's inconsistent. For serious nylon printing, the Bambu P1S or X1 Carbon — both with active heated chambers — are the proper solution.

What's the difference between PA6 and PA12 for 3D printing?

PA6 has higher tensile strength and heat resistance (~170°C HDT vs ~150°C for PA12) but is significantly more hygroscopic — it can absorb 3–4% of its weight in moisture and becomes very difficult to print without constant drying. PA12 absorbs roughly half as much moisture, is much easier to manage, and still delivers excellent mechanical performance. For most users, PA12 is the right choice. Only choose PA6 if you specifically need maximum heat resistance or tensile strength.

How do I fix stringing with nylon?

Nylon strings more than PETG due to its low viscosity at print temperatures. The most effective fixes: reduce retraction distance (excessive retraction clogs nylon), increase retraction speed slightly, lower print temperature by 5°C if layer bonding allows, and — most importantly — ensure the filament is fully dry. Wet nylon strings catastrophically. See our stringing fix guide for a systematic diagnostic approach. Note that some light stringing is normal with nylon and usually cleans up easily with a heat gun.

Does nylon work in the Bambu AMS?

Yes, with the right AMS setup. The full AMS with active drying (or the AMS 2 Pro on the P2S) can maintain filament dryness during multi-hour prints. The AMS Lite cannot actively dry, so nylon in AMS Lite is exposed to ambient humidity — workable for short prints but problematic for anything over a few hours. For reliable multi-colour or multi-material nylon workflows, the full AMS or printing directly from a spool dryer is the right approach.

Is nylon safe to print indoors?

Nylon produces relatively low VOC emissions compared to ABS or ASA — it's considered one of the safer engineering materials to print from a fume perspective. That said, all FDM printing generates ultrafine particles, and printing in a well-ventilated space is always the right practice. The larger practical hazard with nylon is the high bed and nozzle temperatures — the heated chamber on an X1C or P1S runs hot enough that accidental contact is a genuine burn risk.

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